Liposomes: the best conductors or another myth

Liposomes have been widely used in the field of cosmetology in recent decades. What are these substances that are present in effective skin care products?

Liposomes are transdermal biosystems that transport useful and necessary substances into epithelial cells. Recently, the term “liposomal cosmetics” has appeared in cosmetology. Cream with liposomes penetrates deeply into the layers of the epidermis and provides reliable protection of the skin from harmful effects.

Advantages

Cosmetics containing liposome systems differ in their effects from conventional care products. Conventional creams, which do not contain biologically active components, only cover the skin with a thin protective film. They do not rejuvenate the skin, do not slow down the aging process, and do not eliminate its signs. The liposomal composition of the innovative cream or gel can not only smooth out the deepest wrinkles, but also take care of the rejuvenation of the skin.

The use of liposomes is an innovation in modern cosmetology. The substances are included in the compositions of anti-aging and restorative cosmetic products. When choosing new products, it is necessary to rely on the degree of penetration of liposomes into the stratum corneum. The substances are able to overcome thick keratinized layers and nourish the skin as deeply as possible.

The liposome capsule has dimensions from 0.2 to 0.6 microns. The skin has pores of 0.09 micron. When crossing the space, the liposome is deformed and easily penetrates into the smallest capillaries. The particle acts exactly where it is needed. It easily overcomes skin barriers. The effect of many cosmetic products has been repeatedly studied under a microscope. Innovative creams fully met the expectations of cosmetologist developers.

The main advantages of lipoparticles:

• natural biological breakdown and release of active ingredients;
• excellent biocompatibility with organic human cells;
• interaction with a specific cellular structure;
• prolonged exposure;
• launching the necessary rejuvenation processes;
• non-toxic;
• no allergies or tissue irritation.

The intercellular space is filled with lipid compounds. Liposomal substances can overcome them and also penetrate through the glandular ducts. Other aqueous components of cosmetics do not cope with this task. Cosmetic creams and gels use liposomal microcapsules containing active biological ingredients. Liposomes contain anti-aging enzymes, vitamins, antiseptics, and hormonal substances.

Liposomes have been used in medicine since 1975. However, already 10 years later the first capsules began to be used in cosmetology. Dior, L'Oreal and other giants of the cosmetology industry became interested in them.

Liposomes

Liposomes are artificially created lipid vesicles (vesicles) consisting of one or more phospholipid bilayers separated by an aqueous phase. The diameter of liposomes can range from 25 to 10,000 nm.

Rice. 11.8. Model of a multilayer liposome with encapsulated water- and fat-soluble drugs (according to Gregoriadis).

1 - molecules soluble in the aqueous layer; 2 - molecules soluble in the lipid layer; 3 - molecules soluble in the aqueous layer with hydrophobic radicals penetrating into the lipid layer.

Typically, liposomes are prepared by shaking or sonicating aqueous suspensions of phospholipids. Liposomes can be formed from individual phospholipids, either natural or synthetic, or from a mixture of phospholipids.

At first, liposomes were used only as models of biological membranes. It was later found that they can be used as microcontainers that are capable of delivering a variety of drugs to various organs and tissues. Liposomes can contain enzymes, hormones, vitamins, antibiotics, cytostatics, cyclic nucleotides, etc.

In Fig. Figure 11.8 shows a model of a multilayer liposome, and also shows the distribution of water- and fat-soluble drugs encapsulated in the liposome.

The use of liposome-drug complexes has a number of advantages over the use of drugs alone: ​​liposomes allow the delivery of substances into cells that, in the absence of liposomes, do not penetrate into them; attachment of appropriate antibodies (vectors) to liposomes can ensure delivery of substances to target cells; a drug encapsulated in liposomes provides a great therapeutic effect (the duration of action increases, and the dose can be significantly reduced); liposomes can be effectively used as adjuvants, i.e. substances that stimulate immunological reactions. It is believed that there are at least 2 ways for liposomes to enter the cell. The first is that, due to endocytosis, the liposome is taken up by the cell and a vacuole is formed, which fuses with lysosomes. Phospholipases of lysosomes hydrolyze phospholipids of the lysosome membrane, ensuring the release of the drug into the cytoplasm of the cell. If the liposome consists of several lipid membranes, then their gradual hydrolysis ensures a slow release of the drug into the cell. The second way is when liposomes fuse with the cell membrane, in which the lipid component of the liposome is incorporated into the cell membrane, and the water-soluble drug penetrates the cytoplasm. Thus, in both cases, the substance encapsulated in the liposome enters the cells despite the membrane barrier.

Experiments on animals have shown that with intravenous, intramuscular and intraperitoneal administration, liposomes leave the bloodstream quite quickly, as they are captured by the cells of the macrophage system, primarily by the cells of the liver and spleen. Other organs and tissues absorb some of the injected liposomes, but their share is small. Currently, a search is underway for new systems (approaches) for the targeted transport of drugs into the body using liposomes.

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CONTENT

More on the topic:

• LIPOSOMES - chemical encyclopedia

Structure

The liposomal particle has membrane walls that include phospholipids and lecithin. These substances are very resistant to various negative effects of an unfavorable environment. Lecithin in liposome acts as an effective emulsifier.

Experts recommend choosing a gel with liposomes whose sizes are no more than 100-300 nm. Lecithin belongs to the phosphatidylcholines. The liposomal membrane interacts only with certain active biological substances. They absorb the liposome, and the process of phagocytosis occurs. The liposome is embedded in an organic cell, its membrane dissolves. The necessary enzymes, vitamins, acids and other useful substances end up inside the cell.

The best cosmetic products with liposomes

Cream with liposomes Liposomes. The ingredients perfectly nourish and moisturize the skin. Some women note effectiveness after 2-3 weeks of application. Significantly reduces the number of wrinkles. It is considered the best of cosmetics, but requires proper storage;

Mirielle cream. An inexpensive product that can easily compete with foreign manufacturers. Well eliminates signs of aging in women aged 35-40 years. In addition, it makes the skin elastic, evens out the color and adds radiance to the skin. It is also used after laser therapy and beauty injections to enhance the effect;

Creme Reparatrice. A cream with a light texture that moisturizes and eliminates wrinkles. In addition, it contains many active components that give a positive effect. Also, it is available in several versions using various vitamin supplements and natural oils;

Cream Exclusive, a Polish manufacturer that has proven itself well. At the cellular level, it is able to restore the skin with the help of salmon caviar extract. Can be used as day or night, but recommended for women over 70 years old. This is due to the fact that there are a large number of liposomes in the composition and can affect deep wrinkles;

Capabilities of liposomes

Inside the liposome capsules there is a composition of unstable biological compounds. The shell reliably protects these substances during transport into the tissue. The liposome membrane is very close in structure to the cell membrane. That is why the lipoparticle is easily integrated into cell walls.

1. Thanks to the synthetic microcapsule, the enzymes necessary for the skin are not destroyed in the upper layers of the epidermis, but are delivered to its deepest layers. As a result, unchanged biosubstances from the particle effectively smooth out wrinkles and rejuvenate the skin. The effect of using an innovative anti-wrinkle cream or gel can be noticed almost immediately after application.
2. Liposomes can deliver inorganic ions, coenzyme, vitamins, and low molecular weight compounds. All these substances provide skin rejuvenation. Liposomes in cosmetics are indispensable for achieving high effects (restorative and rejuvenating products).
3. The liposome retains the vitamin E needed by the skin unchanged. Without the help of a liposome shell, this vitamin is oxidized already in the upper layer of the dermis. It is negatively affected by free radicals. The use of liposomes allows vitamin E, along with other important components, to be delivered intact and intact into the depths of the epidermis.

At its core, a liposome is a universal carrier that scientists, doctors and cosmetologists have been developing for quite some time. You can also place in it components of the cream that are too inert, substances whose smell cannot be masked by fragrance, or components that evaporate quickly. The discovery in the form of a liposome made it possible to deliver any biological substances deep into the skin.

Types and methods of obtaining liposomes

They are usually classified according to the number of lipid layers, namely: multilayer, large few-layer, small few-layer. Since they can change structure and size, they can change belonging to one species or another.

Depending on the size change, the properties do not change in any way. Lipid particles always perform their function.

Liposomes have created a completely new page in all of cosmetology. Since the particles are so small that they can penetrate the most protected layers of the epidermis. There are several methods for obtaining them:

• Formation with biological solvents, active excipients or phospholipids;
• Treatment or influence on phospholipids with ultrasound. This method is used more often for serial production of cosmetic products, as it allows for improved transfer of active substances.

It is also necessary to take into account the fact that the use of ultrasound allows significant savings without loss of quality. But the funds obtained this way cost much less. In addition, the use of ultrasonic waves makes it possible to cut off negative substances and microelements that may enter the composition.

Features of cosmetics with liposomes

Cosmetics containing liposomes cannot have a shelf life of more than 12 months. At the same time, the shelf life is reduced if the product is stored in inappropriate conditions. After the expiration date has expired, the product decomposes and begins to interact with the components, forming various reactions that can later negatively affect the skin.

Externally, the cream should also have a light texture. It cannot be greasy and viscous. If, when opening the package, you notice a greasy layer on the surface, this means that the shell has dissolved and the cream has lost its quality.

Package. It should always be glass. Definitely with a dispenser. To prevent loss of quality, you need to observe temperature measures, namely store the cream or substance at a temperature of +5 to +15 degrees in a dark place. In addition, there are some contraindications for using such a cream, namely:

1. For existing wounds on the face (this also includes postoperative conditions, as well as severe burns);
2. Presence of skin hypersensitivity to the components of the product;
3. Presence of chronic skin diseases. In some cases, doctors warn about a possible allergic reaction and worsening of the condition;
4. The presence of cancerous tumors (since liposomes are still being studied, you should not use the products if you have tumors. Using creams with liposomes may worsen the condition).