Many of us experience skin problems (show me a lucky girl who doesn’t have them), which become active from time to time, causing a lot of discomfort and unnecessary problems. Avoiding extremes such as eczema or rosacea, let's talk about something that each of us has encountered at least once in our lives - about acne (it is acne, and not pimples, that experts persistently call inflammatory elements on the face).
The age when most girls become acquainted with acne (and which makes their mothers worry in advance) is adolescence (read also: “From a clean face: how to help your teenage daughter cope with acne”). However, only the start of the appearance of rashes depends on the number of years, and even then conditionally. Often their quality and quantity continue to cause problems even when the rubicon of hormonal changes has been crossed. Today, the list of acne treatments includes a wide variety of diets, cosmetic products and medical procedures. Together with Elena Selivanova, dermatovenerologist, leading cosmetologist at the Petrovka Beauty Center for Medical Cosmetology and iSystem brand expert, we recalled the most common ones and found out why they do not always work.
Antibiotics
Broad-spectrum, but chosen incorrectly, they can provoke the growth of fungal flora, which, ironically, will only worsen acne. The problem may also be one of addiction: after about a month to a month and a half of taking medications, the body is able to develop “bacterial resistance”. As a result, even the product that previously perfectly erased all imperfections from the face will turn out to be useless. A possible solution is to alternate “alternative” versions of antibiotics and use medicinal cosmetics. It is unnecessary to remind you that you cannot self-medicate: now antibiotics will only be sold to you with a doctor’s prescription.
Corrective BB cream Clear
This is another new product that has recently been added to the Vichy brand catalog. The BB cream comes in a convenient package in a soft mint tone with a subtle pink tint. Available in 2 shades: natural tone and light color. Tube volume – 40 ml.
The composition contains the following active “ingredients”: thermal water, salicylic acid (2%), mineral pigments
Vichy Normaderm BB cream Clear light 40ml, Vichy
This corrective product is designed for oily skin. It has a multifunctional effect. Cares for problematic skin, treats it and performs matte facial toning.
According to specialists from the Vichy brand, after applying the cream, the complexion and texture of the skin are evened out. The product controls oily shine throughout the day without causing dry skin. With regular use, skin imperfections are reduced after a month.
It has a light texture, without oils. Can be used from the age of 20. However, if you have dark skin, it is better to use Vichy Teint Ideal foundation.
For application you can use a sponge or brush. Or you can apply BB cream with your fingers. Take a little bit of cream (literally the size of a small pearl) and apply it to your face, gently massage it into the skin. Apply the product to the face, avoiding the area around the eyes. To achieve better correction of imperfections, you can apply several layers of this cosmetic. Or use instead of concealer.
Anti-acne cosmetics
Many of them contain benzoyl peroxide, a traditional ingredient in drugstore acne cosmetics. The problem is that such products dry out the skin, both directly at the site of inflammation and around it, and can cause severe irritation and peeling, which is also not an easy task to deal with. Why exchange an awl for soap?
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Blue Herbal Blemish Cleanser Treatment, Kiehl's
Soft foam cleanser Mousse De Beaute, Guerlain
Cleansing scrub with neem with antibacterial properties for normal and problem skin, Himalaya Herbals
Purifying Light Foaming Gel, Eisenberg
Gently cleansing gel for problem skin Anti-Blemish Cleansing Gel, Clinique
Lightning Clean Cleanser with Tea Tree and Witch Hazel, LUSH
Cleanser 3-in-1 gel-scrub-mask “Clean Skin”, Garnier
Cleansing foam for problem skin with juniper, Mi&Ko
5-in-1 Pure Power Daily Cleanser, L'Oreal Men Expert
At the same time, we must not forget that the appearance of inflammation ─ first isolated, and then periodic ─ is often associated with improper skin care. This is also why acne often worsens during the changing seasons - in spring and autumn, when the body is in the grip of adapting to new conditions, we aggravate the problem by not having time to upgrade our cosmetics bag. Attention: anti-acne products must contain hydroxy acids (glycolic, mandelic, salicylic, azelaic), retinol, antiseptics (chlorhexidine), moisturizing components (hyaluronic acid).
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Lotion for tightening pores with a micro-exfoliating effect based on thermal water Effaclar, La Roche Posay
Cleansing and pore-tightening lotion Normaderm, Vichy
“Sebium lotion” for oily and combination skin with triple action (8-hour hydration, normalization of sebum production and skin pH), Bioderma
Mattifying toner Seracin for oily skin, Librederm
Caring for oily and problematic skin, prone to inflammation and rashes, includes not only thorough cleansing, but also active care at night in the form of acids or retinol (if necessary, antibacterial drugs recommended by a doctor), as well as moisturizing in the morning. In the acute stage of acne, pharmaceutical medicinal preparations are used for skin care. Any specialized cosmetic line can be used as maintenance care. Cosmetic procedures, depending on the severity and number of inflammatory elements, can include chemical peelings (for example, almond, salicylic, retinoic), ozone therapy, and plasma therapy.
Action
The beneficial effect of the drug is due to the complex action of its active substances.
Salicylic acid 1.5%
It is also called beta-hydroxy acid and is known for its ability to loosen the surface layer of the epidermis. As a result, a layer of old and dead cells exfoliates, which interfere with the normal discharge of skin secretions. Removing the top layer unclogs pores and improves skin tone, giving it a fresh and rejuvenated appearance. Penetrating deep into the hair follicle or inside the pores, salicylic acid acts directly on the site of inflammation, significantly reducing the inflammatory response. Possessing an antimicrobial effect, the acid destroys pathogenic microflora, preventing the development of pathogens.
Hyaluronic acid
This compound has truly unique properties. By drying the top layer, it creates a micro film. Operating on the principle of a patch. As a result, pathogenic microflora does not gain access to damaged skin. Thus, the number of inflammatory reactions is reduced.
It is also worth noting that hyaluronic acid nourishes the deep layers of the skin. It is actively used in complex treatment aimed at combating acne and acne. That is why the manufacturer included it in Normaderm.
As a result of active tissue stimulation, a large amount of collagen is produced. This allows you to avoid the formation of post-acne, which is the scourge of many people who have overcome acne. Bluish or brown spots can not only ruin your mood, but also disrupt a business meeting. After all, lack of self-confidence leads to disastrous consequences. When hyaluronic acid is included in the course of treatment, this effect can be avoided.
The anti-inflammatory effect that hyaluronic acid has also becomes an excellent addition to the already existing set of positive properties of the drug.
Lipo-hydroxy acid 0.5%
Another compound that has a strong antibacterial effect. Its distinctive feature is the fact that, accumulating in the upper layer, it is capable of stimulating peeling of the skin for a long time, freeing it from keratinized epithelium. Light peeling of the surface layers of the skin allows you to normalize metabolic processes in a short time, as well as cleanse the pores of sebaceous plugs. Thus, the normal activity of the epithelium and deeper layers of the skin is regulated.
The combined effect of all the active compounds of the drug Hyaluspot leads to the fact that the skin tone is evened out, the top layer becomes smoother and more even, post-acne disappears, and the foci of inflammation formed on the surface of the skin quickly decrease.
Folk remedies
Why we trust them almost more than professional means is a mystery. Among this kind of “panacea” are coconut oil, wine vinegar, and even toothpaste (egg whites and cucumber juice are simply a must-have from grandma’s chest). Experts, however, agree that chamomile and parsley decoctions have a real antiseptic effect, and they can be taken ─ both externally, to wipe inflamed skin, and internally, but you should not count on a lightning-fast and complex effect. When it comes to herbs, you can think of thyme: its essential oil has pronounced antibacterial and antioxidant properties.
Skin Perfecting Peel Pads, Elizabeth Arden PRO
Squeezing pimples
It is difficult to resist doing this, especially when the appearance is spoiled not by a black dot ready to turn red, but by a white, swollen bump. No matter how you do this - with perfectly clean fingers or after steaming your face - the risk that a new one will form at the site of inflammation, and even worse than the previous one, remains. However, every rule has its exceptions.
Today, cosmetologists are increasingly saying that all inflammatory elements with a white head must be removed. The main thing is to do it correctly. A short master class: take a sterile napkin with an antiseptic (chlorhexidine, miramistin), carefully treat the inflammation, use a sterile needle (suitable for a disposable syringe) to pierce the surface of the pimple and carefully remove the unsightly contents with clean fingers. Immediately treat the opened pimple with hydrogen peroxide, and then with antibacterial cream. Doctors find the rationale for such harsh measures to be simple: inflammation must always be controlled. The longer the element “matures,” the higher the likelihood of scar formation. But, of course, take into account the skin’s tendency to scarring and pigmentation: if it is increased, it is better not to practice squeezing out pimples on your own.
A home gadget for treating acne Espada (FOREO) using a non-invasive method: the device works on the principle of blue light phototherapy, affecting bacteria with the energy of an LED beam. The procedure is quick (30 seconds of “work” with inflammation), painless and hygienic (convenient to take with you).
Unique composition
Cosmetics of this brand are made on the basis of water from a French thermal spring, which has a restorative effect on the affected areas, and therefore healing water has become the main component in Vichy cosmetics. It is impossible to produce products on such a basis in laboratory conditions, since they contain natural minerals and are a purely natural product. Each line of this brand has a unique composition; they are combined with useful vitamin complexes of groups A, C, E.
Anti-aging creams of this brand contain natural ingredients that have a soothing property. Such creams are rich in phytohormones and antioxidants. And products intended for the care of young skin contain only pure thermal water and softening additives, which have a gentle effect on a young face.
Vichy cosmetic products contain water from the Lucas cold spring, which contains rare minerals (for reference: there are 5 springs in total). This is the main component of all products, which cannot be replicated in the laboratory, because it is an exclusively natural product.
The company's official source claims that the cosmetics are fully certified and tested on sensitive skin, which also confirms the high global standard. Products from this brand are considered hypoallergenic, but this means that the risk of an allergic reaction is minimized, and not 100%. Therefore, in any case, it is necessary to conduct an allergenicity test (apply the product to a small area of the hand for 15 minutes and watch the reaction).
Ultraviolet
It really does have an antibacterial effect, but it is so dosed that you don’t need to specifically fry in the sun for it. For example, an interesting fact: often after the skin condition improves in southern latitudes, after returning to normal conditions, an exacerbation occurs. Need I mention that tanning in a solarium is especially harmful?
Elena Selivanova is a dermatovenerologist, cosmetologist, leading cosmetologist at the Petrovka Beauty Center for Medical Cosmetology, iSystem brand expert.
Photo: Getty Images, press service archives
