When buying another cosmetic product, we sometimes don’t even think about what exactly its ingredients are and how they affect our skin.
However, any cosmetic product is a complex set of components based on modern developments and knowledge accumulated over centuries. And behind the complex names in the composition of a cosmetic product there is a whole world of components that have different effects on the skin.
In fact, what works for some people may not necessarily work for others. And sometimes even natural ingredients can cause an allergic reaction in sensitive people.
The list below will allow you to find out what the names of the components mean and what role they play in the composition of cosmetics.
Agar-agar , obtained from White Sea and Far Eastern algae, is used as an emulsifier in low-fat creams.
Arachidonic acid is added to creams as a nutritional supplement.
Silk proteins , or sericin, prevent moisture loss by forming a protective film on the surface of the skin.
Benzyl alcohol is a powerful disinfectant. In decorative cosmetics it is used as a preservative.
Benzoic acid , like benzoic oil, is used as a preservative and has an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin.
Butylene glycol helps retain moisture in the skin, and also enhances the effect of other components in the cosmetic product.
Valine is an amino acid that retains moisture in skin cells.
Hyposulfite , which contains sulfur, can be used in cosmetology to treat skin diseases.
Glycerin is an alcohol that can retain moisture in the skin. It also acts as an antiseptic, preventing the development of pathogenic bacteria not only on the skin, but also in the jar of cream itself, acting as a natural preservative.
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide protect the skin from harmful ultraviolet rays. They have anti-inflammatory properties and do not penetrate the skin.
Disodium in the cream softens the effect of tap water, neutralizing magnesium and calcium compounds.
Gelatin . This premium grade of natural animal glue is used as a thickener in creams. However, it is not resistant to temperature changes.
Emu oil is close in composition to the lipids of the stratum corneum of our skin and is part of expensive cosmetics. Also has good antibacterial properties.
Carageenan is an emulsifier obtained from Irish moss.
Camphor alcohol is produced from the wood of the camphor tree. It significantly tightens pores and has an effective antimicrobial effect.
Kitalan is a waxy product that, like stearyl stearate (stearol), is used in cosmetics instead of spermaceti.
Coenzyme Q 10 – moisturizes, improves skin elasticity and reduces wrinkles.
Kryolan is lanolin in liquid form.
Lanolin . This wax is obtained from sheep's wool. It is used in cosmetics as a powerful moisturizing component. Lanolin is well absorbed without leaving a greasy sheen, and also enhances metabolic processes and improves blood circulation. Despite its obvious benefits for the skin, lanolin can cause an allergic reaction.
Lecithin is a substance close to skin lipids that can “fill in” damaged areas, restoring skin cover.
Citric acid is known for its skin whitening effect and is also used to remove age spots and freckles.
Methylcellulose is used as an emulsifier.
Mineral oils (also labeled as mineral oil) are waxy vaseline, paraffin and ozokerite, substances that are obtained during the distillation of oil. In inexpensive creams they are used as thickeners. They interfere with the penetration of oxygen and are not absorbed by the skin. Acceptable in protective winter creams, some massage oils and masks.
Lactic acid , which “lives” in bread and dairy products, is used in cosmetology to moisturize and whiten the skin.
Glycerol monostearate and monoglycerides can often be found in creams, which are used as emulsifiers.
Urea is a safe and effective moisturizing substance that does not cause allergic reactions.
Mink oil is a very valuable element in cosmetics. It is absorbed very well by the skin and does not leave a greasy film on it.
Zinc oxide is used for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties.
Pentol , oleate and sorbitan oleate are emulsifiers based on oleic acid.
Propylene glycol . Currently, controversy surrounding this solvent continues. Supporters believe that it retains moisture in the skin, delivering beneficial substances to cells. Opponents argue that propylene glycol, on the contrary, helps displace fluid from the skin. However, propylene glycol is currently an officially approved food additive with classification E 1520, which is actively used in baking confectionery products.
Beeswax is a natural thickener that locks moisture into the skin. In people prone to allergic reactions, it may provoke an allergic reaction. Beeswax is a natural source of vitamins E and A, fatty acids, softens the skin and prevents inflammation.
Salicylic acid disinfects and whitens the skin, and acts as a natural preservative in cosmetic jars.
Salicylic alcohol is extracted from willow bark. Used to disinfect and whiten skin, as well as to treat acne.
Squalene , extracted from the liver oil of deep sea sharks, is able to penetrate into the deep layers of our skin, moisturizing and healing it.
Magnesium salts are active antioxidants that help the skin maintain youthfulness longer, slow down the aging process and prevent allergic reactions.
Sodium salts help nutrients penetrate deeper into skin cells.
Sorbitol is a solid alcohol that is obtained from the fruits of plums, rowan berries and cherries. In cosmetics it replaces glucose.
Spermaceti is produced from shark or whale oil and moisturizes and softens the skin. Spermaceti is close in composition to the lipids of our skin. But, like many other active natural chemicals, it is a potential allergen for people prone to allergic reactions.
Stearate is an ester of stearic acid that is used as a humectant and emulsifier.
Terlan , unlike cryolan, is solid lanolin.
Tocopherol acetate has good antioxidant properties, stimulates immune processes in the skin, improves blood circulation, increasing the lifespan of cells.
Tragacanth is a resinous substance that oozes from cracks and cuts in certain shrubs. Unique in its ability to expand twelve times when it swells. In low-fat creams and is used as an emulsifier.
Transcutol is a substance that carries active substances into cells.
Caprylic acid triglyceride is used as a base in creams. This is a type of fatty synthetic oil that is identical to natural sebum.
Ceresin is a petroleum product. In cosmetics it can be used as a structure-forming substance.
Cetyl alcohol in cosmetics acts as an emulsifier, evenly mixing the fat and water parts. It does not irritate the skin and promotes the penetration of the active substances contained in the cream.
Cyclomethicone, dimethicone and simethicone are silicone oils used in creams as emulsifiers and lubricants. A protective elastic film is formed on the skin, which does not prevent the skin from breathing, while simultaneously creating the effect of satin skin.
Acetic acid is used as a disinfectant.
Phytolen is a very gentle oil that does not cause allergies. Used as a moisturizer and bactericide.
Chitosan , obtained from crustacean shells, is used as a moisturizing gel-like moisturizing substance.
Sodium chloride is used as an antiseptic .
Of course, this is not a complete list of substances that can be included in cosmetics. Here are the most common ingredients to help you learn more about what the cosmetic product you buy will actually do.
Don’t forget the basic rule: the likelihood that a purchased tonic or cream will contain a low-quality or prohibited component is less likely in expensive products. Indeed, in real cosmetics, natural oils are added as preservatives, so if you really want to benefit your skin, you should not skimp on care and cosmetic products.
A common occurrence is that a manicurist recommends products to clients to care for the skin of their hands or feet, but with each new visit the situation only gets worse - the skin dries out even more. The reason for this is the ineffective composition.
Products for the body, hands, feet and hair may consist of:
- Basics;
- Surfactants or surfactants;
- Active components;
- Preservatives;
- Antioxidants;
- Alcohols;
- Alkalis;
- Acid.
Each substance in this case has its own role and only the correct concentration and combination can make the product effective and safe.
What is included in natural cosmetics?
In the production of natural and organic cosmetics, the following are usually used:
- Extracts and extracts from medicinal herbs and plants. The most commonly used are sage, nettle, lavender, green tea leaves, wheat sprouts, and chamomile.
- Natural preservatives. The following natural preservatives are used: propolis, rosemary extract, beeswax, citric acid, St. John's wort extract, neem oil (margosa), vegetable alcohols.
- Vegetable oils. They have a softening, nourishing and moisturizing effect on the skin. The products most often contain base oils such as olive, peach, almond, coconut, castor, argan, and sea buckthorn. Less commonly used are jojoba, shea butter, and macadamia oils.
- Essential oils. Used as a natural preservative, natural flavoring, antiseptic. A wide variety of plants are used to produce oils.
In addition to the above components, natural cosmetics also contain such useful substances as:
- Vitamin A. Has a general strengthening effect on the structure of the epidermis. It also promotes rejuvenation and increased tissue elasticity.
- Vitamin E. Slows down the aging process, removes toxins, promotes hydration and evens out the skin surface
- Panthenol. Belongs to group B vitamins. The substance eliminates dryness, deeply nourishes the skin, eliminates flaking, relieves inflammation and has a calming effect.
- Hyaluronic acid of plant origin. Helps maintain water balance in tissues. Acid is an excellent moisturizer, forming a kind of invisible film on the surface of the skin that retains moisture inside, preventing it from evaporating. Thus, the skin acquires a healthy appearance, tone and elasticity increase, and fine wrinkles are smoothed out.
- Allantoin. Softens the epidermis, has a beneficial effect on dry and sensitive skin. It is a powerful antioxidant. Obtained from comfrey.
- Fruit acids. In cosmetology they are used as an exfoliant. Obtained from plant materials.
Natural cosmetics should not contain:
- radioactive substances;
- GMO
- chemical raw materials;
- petroleum products;
- synthetic flavors;
- artificial dyes.
How to make a face cream recipe
You won't be able to make real cream without a recipe. In cream making, it is very important to know, down to the gram, how much we need to add a particular component. There are a lot of ready-made recipes on the Internet, but if you take them into service, you definitely need to double-check them. It’s best to make your own recipes. Therefore, I will now tell you how to do this.
Choosing an emulsifier for cream
It all starts with the choice of emulsifier. It is the emulsifier that determines the entire texture of the cream. Usually, in the description of the emulsifier on the store’s website, the dosage of the emulsifier itself is written and how many oils we can add.
So, we take the emulsifier Olivem 1000. The percentage of Olivem introduced into the cream is 5-10% of the total mass of the cream. So how much should you choose: 5, 7, 10%? Let's take a look at this handy table:
| Olivem 1000 – percentage of input | Fat phase percentage | ||
| 10% | 20% | 30% | |
| 3% | The cream has a light texture, like milk. There is a risk of instability, you need to add 0.3% xanthan gum to stabilize | Not recommended, risk of instability | Not recommended, risk of instability |
| 5-6% | Light moisturizing fluid cream, very good stability | Cream of thick texture, very good stability | Dense buttercream, very good stability |
| 8% | Light silky cream, very good stability | Thick cream, very good stability | Thick cream, very good stability |
I took this table from the description of the emulsifier on the Aromazon website. We don’t need to invent anything, everything is already prescribed by the manufacturer. So, from this table we see how much olive and oils you need to take to get a stable cream. Only 3% of the emulsifier is used to prepare a light milk - this can be a moisturizing body lotion. With such a small percentage of emulsifier, a small amount of xanthan gum is required to stabilize the emulsion. The best cream is obtained when 5-8% olivem is taken. We will take the average value, where 5% emulsifier and 20% oils are required. You will get a good cream of medium thickness. You can take argan oil, as long as we don’t know how to make competent oil mixtures
We have a recipe for the cream:
- Olivem 1000 – 5%
- Argan oil – 20%
Choosing assets for cream
To make the cream have additional properties, we will add a couple of moisturizing assets. All skin needs hydration, not just dry skin. From all the variety, let’s take natural moisturizing factor (nuf) and provitamin B5. These 2 assets are universal, they can be added to any cream. You can also take anti-aging assets. The percentage of assets is also written in their description: for provitamin B5 it is 2-5%, for nuf it is 1-3%. If you are using these assets for the first time, you need to start with a small dosage and check the skin reaction. I usually take average values: provitamin B5 3%, nuf 2%.
The recipe for our cream is now like this:
- Olivem 1000 – 5%
- Argan oil – 20%
- Provitamin B5 – 3%
- Nuf - 2%
I will explain how to convert percentages to grams below once we get the full cream recipe. Now we need to add a preservative. I use cosgard, its dosage is 0.2-1%, the manufacturer recommends taking 0.6%, so that’s what I add.
And we have the last component left - water. We take enough water to make 100% of the product. We need to add up all the percentages and subtract them from 100. We get 100% -30.6% = 69.4%. As a result, 69.4% of water comes out.
Full face cream recipe
Now our recipe is complete:
- Olivem 1000 – 5%
- Argan oil – 20%
- Provitamin B5 – 3%
- Nuf - 2%
- Preservative - 0.6%
- Water - 69.4%
For convenience, cream makers write the recipe this way:
Fat phase:
- Olivem 1000 – 5%
- Argan oil – 20%
Water phase:
- Water - 69.4%
Active phase:
- Provitamin B5 – 3%
- Nuf - 2%
- Preservative - 0.6%
This way you can see what is included in which phase, what percentage each phase is.
Glossary of active ingredients
Apricot oil
– oil extracted from apricot kernels. Contains polyunsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E, which moisturize, soften and rejuvenate the skin. Included in many VICHY cosmetics for restoring dry skin.
Adenosine
– accelerates collagen synthesis, improves microcirculation, starts the process of skin cell regeneration. It has a “Botox effect” - it prevents the contraction of micromuscles in the skin, blocking the formation of facial wrinkles. Included in some products from the IDEALIA, LIFTACTIV, VICHY HOMME ranges.
Asiatic acid (Centella asiatica)
– has a wound-healing, regenerative effect, stimulates blood circulation. Included in Aqualia Thermal lip balm.
Aquabioril™
– a natural component that gives the skin smoothness. Prevents moisture evaporation, performs a barrier-protective function, and reduces skin sensitivity. Part of the AQUALIA THERMAL range and NORMADERM Global cream.
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Aluminum hydrochloride
– a derivative of aluminum and hypochlorous acid. Fills the ducts of the sweat glands without disturbing the respiratory processes of the skin. Helps reduce excess sweating. Included in VICHY antiperspirants.
Aminexil
– an active component in the fight against hair loss. Prevents the compaction of the connective tissue surrounding the hair follicle, which allows strengthening the fixation of hair in the scalp. Included in ampoules and shampoos with Aminexil in the Derkos range.
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Arginine
– an amino acid involved in the synthesis of all proteins in the body. Has an antioxidant effect and moisturizes the skin. Strengthens microcirculation. Part of the Aminexil complex of the Derkos range.
Bisabolol
– a component of plant origin isolated from chamomile oil. Relieves irritation and inflammation. Included in the soothing shampoo of the Derkos range.
Bassia oil
– Bassia seed oil (cotton tree). It has pronounced softening properties, restores skin elasticity, improving its color and structure. Included in the Universal Remedy for Stretch Marks.
Buffer effect
– the ability to maintain and restore normal skin pH (slightly acidic).
Vitamin E
– a complex of compounds (tocopherols) similar in chemical nature and biological action. Inhibits lipid peroxidation of cell membranes – antioxidant effect. Participates in the biosynthesis of proteins, cell proliferation, and tissue respiration and other important processes of cellular metabolism.
Vitamin C
- ascorbic acid. Regulates all types of metabolism, tissue regeneration, collagen synthesis. Inhibits the production of melanin, protecting the skin from pigmentation. Tones and strengthens the walls of blood vessels. Strong antioxidant.
Hyaluronic acid
– instantly and intensively saturates the skin with moisture. Has the ability to bind and retain large amounts of water. Part of the Aqualia Thermal range and many VICHY anti-aging products.
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Glykasil
– a derivative of iodine and carboxylic acid. Has an antibacterial and sebum-regulating effect. Included in antiperspirant for 7 days and antiperspirant deodorant for 48 hours.
Glycolic acid
– alpha-hydroxy acid, one of the varieties of fruit organic acids. Promotes the destruction of intercellular connections and exfoliation of dead cells of the stratum corneum. Included in the Normaderm range of products.
Glycerol
– has a softening effect, binds and retains water in the epidermis of the skin.
Dextran
– polysaccharide, improves microcirculation, has a draining and anti-edematous effect. Included in some VICHY eye area products.
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Titanium dioxide
– mineral sunscreen. Blocks ultraviolet rays. Part of the Capital Soleil range of sunscreens.
Jojoba oil
– deeply absorbed into the skin, providing hydration, nutrition, regeneration and protection of the deepest layers of the epidermis. Its composition is close to skin lipids. Included in VICHY cosmetic products for dry skin.
Calcium hydroxyapatite
– calcium salt in bioavailable form. Protects the skin by restoring its barrier protective properties. Included in the Vichy Om men's range. Camellia oil – soothes, moisturizes, nourishes, increases protective functions. Part of the transformative micellar oil in the Purte Thermal range.
Kaolin (white clay)
– a natural component with a high absorbent effect. Deeply cleanses pores. Included in some products of the Normaderm range.
Shea butter
– oil isolated from the fruits of the shea tree. It has regenerative properties, nourishes and softens the skin, moisturizes it. Contains a natural UV filter. A natural source of vitamin E. Included in all VICHY products for dry skin.
Carnauba wax
- wax obtained from the leaves of the South American carnauba palm. Creates a wrinkle filling effect. Included in some products of the Liftactive range and Liftactive Tone foundation.
Carthamus oil
– oil obtained from the seeds of Carthamus tincica (a plant of the coriander genus), stimulates the endogenous synthesis of lipids in the skin, softens and restores the epidermis. Included in some products of the Neovadiol range.
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Ceramides
– lipids that are part of the membrane structures of cells. Maintains water balance, strengthens the structure of hair and eyelashes, preventing their fragility. Included in some products from the Derkos and Liftactive ranges.
Coriander oil
– oil from coriander fruits. Has a regenerating effect on the skin, eliminates flaking. Included in Nutrilozhi cream.
Silicon
– takes part in the processes of collagen and elastin synthesis, and also stimulates the division of fibroblasts. Silicon provides skin elasticity and has a mattifying effect. Included in many VICHY products.
Kombucha
– fermented black tea extract. A laboratory-produced cocktail of polyphenols, probiotics, vitamins and fruit acids. Improves complexion, tightens pores, and has a slight anti-aging effect. Included in Idealia day care and Idealia BB cream.
Caffeine
– found in coffee tree seeds, tea bush leaves, etc. It has a drainage effect, stimulates lipolysis - the process of fat breakdown under the action of lipase, improves microcirculation and tones the skin. Included in some products from the Idealia, Liftactive, and body modeling products.
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Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate
– surfactants, foaming agents. Used in many washing and cleaning products.
White lily extract
– relieves irritation and soothes the skin. Included in deodorant for sensitive skin.
Lipo-hydroxy acid
– patented active ingredient. Targeted exfoliation without the risk of skin irritation, stimulates cellular renewal and increases the penetration of active components into the deeper layers of the skin. Included in many VICHY cosmetic products.
Lipolytic activator Lipocidin™
– a patented complex that optimizes the breakdown of fat deposits. It also has a stimulating effect on protein synthesis, which blocks receptors responsible for the accumulation of fat during a diet. Included in the body sculpting product.
Macadamia oil
– eliminates irritation and peeling. Has antioxidant and rejuvenating effects. Included in many VICHY cosmetic products.
Copper
– a mineral that is an essential component of many antioxidant enzymes, playing an important role in protecting cells from free radicals. Copper has an antibacterial effect.
Mexoril SX
– patented narrow-spectrum UV filter. Protects against short-wave UVA rays, water- and photo-resistant.
Mexoril XL
– patented broad-spectrum UV filter. Protects against UVA and UVB rays, water- and photo-resistant.
Micellar technology
– effectively removes any impurities from the surface of the skin without irritating or injuring it. Included in some products from the Purte Thermal and Normaderm ranges.
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Neohesperidin
– red grapefruit peel extract, a powerful antioxidant, maintains skin elasticity. Included in the Liftactive Supreme cream.
Octocrylene
– narrow-spectrum sun filter. Protects against UVB rays, water- and photo-resistant.
Oleosome Technology™
– a transport system for delivering active substances to the deeper layers of the skin, and improves the cosmetic properties of the cream. Part of the Nutrilozhi range.
Parsol
– narrow spectrum sun filter. Protects against long-wave UVA rays, water- and photo-resistant.
Perlite
– a natural ingredient of volcanic origin, has a powerful absorbent property, mattifies, and maintains freshness throughout the day. Included in antipespirant deodorants, Normaderm Global and Total Mat creams.
Perspicalm
– a component that absorbs excess moisture for a long time, even under stress conditions. Included in the Anti-stress 72 hour deodorant.
Piroctone olamine
– a component that has antifungal activity against the fungus Pityrosporum ovale. Included in the DERCOS Soothing Shampoo for sensitive scalp.
Pro-vitamin B5
– soothes, softens the skin, strengthens eyelashes.
Pro-Xylan™
– patented active ingredient. A polysaccharide of natural origin, restores the intercellular matrix of the skin, increasing its density and elasticity. Included in NEOVADIOL products.
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Ramnoza
– monosaccharide of plant origin with anti-aging effect (7 patents). It has a deep biological effect, promotes the production of your own collagen and elastin. Part of the LIFTACTIV range.
Retinol (vitamin A)
– fat-soluble vitamin, antioxidant. Enhances the proliferation of epithelial skin cells. "Gold standard" for wrinkle correction. Included in LIFTACTIV ADVANCED Wrinkle filler.
Rice bran oil
– natural oil obtained from the coating flakes of rice by boiling. Well nourishes and softens the skin, has a healing and protective effect. Included in the Mazhistral products, NEOVADIOL range.
Salicylic acid
– has an exfoliating and antibacterial effect. Helps cleanse pores and combat blackheads. Part of the NORMADERM range.
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Stemoxidine
– a substance of ethereal nature, a biomimetic that recreates optimal conditions for the growth of new hair in the lower reservoir of the hair root. Included in DERCOS NEOGENIC ampoules and shampoo.
Sphingolipid℗
– patented complex. Stimulates the natural process of lipid synthesis in the skin, restores the barrier-protective functions of the epidermis. Included in NUTRILOGIE products.
Thermal water VICHY SPA
– The main component that ensures the uniqueness of VICHY laboratory products. Rich in rare minerals (15 minerals). Thanks to its unique composition, which cannot be recreated in laboratory conditions, Thermal Water is able to retain moisture, protect, restore and soothe the skin.
Liquid Light Technology
– reflective particles dissolved in liquid. Provide a good masking and smoothing effect. Included in the “Ideal Tone” foundation and in the Ideal Eye Foundation.
Phytodolin™
– enhances the drainage functions of the skin. Reduces swelling and signs of “bruising” of the skin in the morning. Part of the NUTRILOGIE range.
Eperulin
- a substance isolated from an Amazonian plant of the legume family. It has an anti-inflammatory, calming effect, reduces skin hypersensitivity, regulates inflammation.
Epiloba extract
– an extract isolated from a leafy plant of the fireweed family. Has an anti-inflammatory effect. Included in the after sun exposure product of the CAPITAL IDEAL SOLEIL sun protection range.
Escin
– a substance isolated from horse chestnut fruits. It has a tonic effect on the walls of blood vessels, improving microcirculation. Included in some VICHY eye area products. Captelae™ – Shea tree bark extract is a detox component that removes impurities. Included in some products from the PURETE THERMALE range.
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DRM-BRIGHT
– a patented complex consisting of eperulin, procysteine and vitamin Cg. Has a depigmenting, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory effect. Included in the serum Idealia PRO and Idealia eyes.
Hepes
– a patented complex that has exfoliating properties and stimulates cellular renewal. Included in the night cream LIFTACTIV and NORMADERM Night Detox.
L-Carrageenan
– a derivative of red seaweed, a deep moisturizing component, promotes uniform distribution of moisture in the skin. Part of the AQUALIA THERMAL range and PURETE THERMALE nourishing milk.
LR 2412
– a unique patented component. Created on the basis of jasmonic acid, it has a powerful regenerating, protective and restorative effect on the skin. Stimulates the synthesis of endogenous hyaluronic acid, reduces wrinkles, evens out skin tone. Included in some products from the IDEALIA and LIFTACTIV ranges.
SP 94
– a high-molecular complex, which includes glucose and linoleic acid. Stimulates the growth of healthy and strong hair, supplying the hair follicle with energy and necessary structural components. Included in the DERCOS AMINEXIL range of Aminexil products.
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Proteic GF
– protein is a growth factor stimulator, a natural component obtained from legumes. Stimulates the work of growth factors present in the skin, restores the oval of the face. Part of the NEOVADIOL range.
Purisoft (moringa extract)
– a soft natural surfactant, gently cleanses without drying out the skin, softens the effects of hard water.
UVA
– an international symbol meaning that the product fully complies with European requirements for sunscreens and effectively protects against UVA rays (photoaging, pigmentation). Indicated on all VICHY sunscreen products.
How to choose a face cream based on packaging
When choosing, pay attention to the container that contains the cream: it can be a tube, a bottle with a dispenser, or a jar. Squeezing the cream out of a tube or bottle is more hygienic, since you only use the part of the cream that you squeezed out. The rest of it does not come into contact with your hands. For hygienic use of cream in jars, it is recommended to use a special spatula so that bacteria from your hands do not get into the cream.
Try to purchase cream in good stores, where it can be tested for an allergic reaction. Use the skin on your wrist. If after half an hour you notice allergenic signs, then this cream is not suitable for you.
In addition, you should open the cream right in the store to check its smell and consistency.
Fragrances in cosmetics
In order for a cosmetic product to have a pleasant, unobtrusive odor, fragrances must be added to the composition of cosmetic products during production. Their main purpose is to “mute” the natural odors of the ingredients used. Sometimes you can see the “fragrance-free” mark on packages. Unfortunately, in most cases the manufacturer does not specify: in fact, they are present in such products, but usually these are fragrances based on natural essential oils.
Emulsifiers in cosmetics
Emulsifiers are necessary to prevent instability of the system, which separates into its constituent components when water and oil combine. Surfactants found in cosmetics are often used as emulsifiers.
This becomes possible due to the special structure of the emulsifier molecule (an elongated shape with one hydrophilic end and one hydrophobic end). The emulsifier molecule is localized at the boundary of the water and oil phases and creates a layer between them, due to which they do not mix.
Emollients in cosmetics
In the production of cosmetics, no less important are substances that can remain in the stratum corneum or on its surface, giving the skin a feeling of comfort. Such substances are called “emollients”. Thanks to their effects, the skin remains soft and moisturized for a long time. In addition, with the help of emollients, the product is better distributed over the skin. These substances act as follows: the gaps between exfoliated corneocytes are filled, which allows a smoothing effect to be achieved.
The most common types of emollients that can be seen in the composition of a cosmetic product when deciphering it:
- synthetic oils;
- mineral oils;
- wax;
- silicones (organosilicon compounds included in cosmetics are responsible for tactility);
- natural vegetable oils;
- animal fats;
- fatty alcohols.
Many emollients are beneficial for skin health, as they contain trace elements necessary to maintain youth and beauty. However, some types of these substances can cause the formation of comedones. If your skin is prone to such dermatological problems, it is better not to use emollients and products that contain them.
Preservatives in cosmetics
Without preservatives, it would be impossible to protect cosmetics from fungi and bacteria. Preservatives make it possible to make the shelf life as long as possible, while maintaining all the basic qualities (color, smell, properties, etc.).
However, not all consumers approve of preservatives included in cosmetic products. The fact is that with a high concentration of these substances in the product, a serious allergy can develop. Recently, many manufacturers have been trying to solve this problem by reducing the concentration of preservatives in decorative and skincare cosmetics.
Protective UV filters in cosmetic products
Substances that can absorb, reflect or neutralize the effects of ultraviolet radiation are classified as UV filters. According to modern classification, all existing UV filters are divided into:
- physical UV filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide);
- chemical UV filters (benzophenones, octyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene).
Filters protect the skin from UVB and UVA spectrum. If both types of filters are indicated in the composition of a cosmetic product, this will mean that the degree of protection is quite high.
