Shea butter: properties and uses for the skin of the body, hands, chest and more

Carrier oils, which contain healthy fats and vitamins, help relieve inflammation, soften skin, improve complexion and reduce the effects of free radicals. One of the most valuable vegetable fats is shea butter (karite).

Shea butter can be used for the face in its pure form, as a base for masks and as an additive to creams and massage mixtures.

Composition and beneficial properties of the oil

The composition of shea butter includes the following components:

saturated fatty acids (palmitic, stearic), constituting from 38 to 52% of the mass of saponified substances;
poly- and monounsaturated fatty acids: omega-3 and omega-6 (linolenic, linoleic acid) - up to 9% of all fats, omega-9 (oleic, arachidic acid) - from 40 to 55%;
natural phenols;
terpene compounds (triterpenes, terpene alcohols);
phytosterols (steroid substances that are plant analogues of cholesterol);
tocopherols (vitamin E).

The average content of unsaponifiable substances (terpenes, phenols, phytosterols and tocopherols) in shea butter is 8–9%. All components of this base oil are used in cosmetology: fatty acids and phytosterols nourish and protect the skin, tocopherols are antioxidants, and the remaining ingredients have an antimicrobial effect.

The increased content of stearic and palmitic acids provides a denser oil structure than other vegetable pomace (from olives, grape seeds, avocados, etc.).

Shea seed butter has the following beneficial properties:

softens thick and dry skin;
prevents moisture loss, incl. from thin sensitive areas (lips, hands, etc.);
rejuvenates and stimulates the restoration of aging skin;
slows down photoaging, preventing skin damage from free oxygen radicals;
reduces the risk of exacerbation of dermatological diseases;
relieves minor inflammations;
improves complexion, reduces the risk of peeling of the epidermis;
prevents hair loss from eyebrows and eyelashes.

Mechanism of action on the skin

Fatty acids, which are the main component of shea butter, act as natural emollients (emollients). They create a thin oily film on the surface of the skin, which reduces moisture loss and prevents dehydration of the epidermis.

To ensure all stages of skin care, emollients are used after moisturizers or simultaneously with them.

Shea butter renews and nourishes the skin

Phytosterols and unsaturated fatty acids have a high affinity for skin cells (keratinocytes). These components restore the barrier function of the epidermis and stimulate the regeneration of damaged areas. PFA and phytosterols are included in creams, oils and emulsions for dry and atopic skin.

Tocopherols are effective antioxidants. They neutralize free oxygen radicals that are formed when exposed to UV radiation. This allows you to slow down photoaging of the skin and protect against damage to the keratinocyte membrane.

Vitamin E enhances the effects of retinoids (vitamin A), which lighten pigmentation and stimulate skin restoration. Vegetable oils, incl. Shea butter contains a small amount of retinol, so it is recommended to add a solution of vitamin A to oil masks and scrubs.

How to Find the Best Shea Butter

It is important to purchase only high quality raw shea butter to reap the maximum benefits. The American Shea Butter Institute notes that shea butter contains the ingredient cinnamic acid, an anti-inflammatory agent that is a substance closely related to the same cinnamon you find in your kitchen cupboard. The purer the shea butter, the less cinnamic acid is present; therefore, the benefits of shea butter are greatly reduced.

Additionally, many oils have added flavorings to make them cheaper—and these additives can significantly reduce the benefits of the oil. It is recommended that shea butter be used within 18 months of being extracted from the seed, as the benefits may decrease over time.

Best Organic Shea Butter Options at iHerb.com

Out of Africa, Raw Shea Butter, Unscented, 8 oz. (227 g)

Now Foods, Now Foods, Solutions, Certified Natural Shea Butter, 7 fl oz (207 ml)

Nubian Heritage, Raw Shea Butter, 4 oz. (113 g)

Contraindications

The use of shea seed oil for facial skin is contraindicated for the following pathologies:

allergies to shea butter and latex;
high skin sensitivity and tendency to irritation;
inflammation of the eyes and eyelids (for application to eyebrows, eyelashes and the area around the eyes);
acne and acute inflammatory processes in the epidermis;
exacerbation of atopic dermatitis and other dermatological pathologies;
a large number of unwanted hairs on the face (with caution).

In case of acute atopic dermatitis, ceramide-based emollients should be used, which restore the skin structure and do not provoke the “greenhouse effect”. During remission, the use of shea butter is allowed. The effect of vegetable fats can reduce the risk of exacerbations and prolong remission.

If your skin is oily, you should use vegetable fats with caution, because... they clog pores and have a comedogenic effect.

It is advisable to conduct an allergy test before using the oil.

To avoid an allergic reaction, before using shea juice, it is necessary to conduct an allergy test on a small area near the face (for example, under the chin or near the ear). If there is no irritation, redness, itching or rash within a few hours, you can apply the oil to your entire face.

On oily, combination and sensitive skin, after using masks with base oils, spot inflammation and dark acne (comedones) may appear. If this side effect occurs despite following all the rules for using masks, you should stop applying pure oils to the skin.

How to select and store the product?

To increase profits, some manufacturers do not pay attention to the quality of the product, add preservatives to it, or even dilute it with cheaper components (mineral or olive oil). In order not to buy low-quality oil, you need to take into account several nuances:

high-quality oil has a white or light beige tint: brown or pronounced beige color indicates a low degree of purification of the product or its deterioration;
natural shea butter should have a dense consistency (like a thick ointment), and become liquid only when heated (oil mixtures with a small content of shea extract have a liquid form);
There is also a liquid subtype of oil (shea oil), which has a lower content of stearic acid and can be used for applying to hair and creating creams at home;
for facial care, it is advisable to use only refined types of oils (degree of product purification - B, C and D);
refined fat has virtually no odor, unrefined fat has a pleasant nutty aroma, and a spoiled product smells strongly of household chemicals;
The packaging must contain information about the manufacturer (the main supplier is African countries), the importer and the degree of purification of the product (refined oil has a purity degree of C).

Cost can also be a criterion for choosing a product: natural oil costs at least 2–3 rubles. for 1 ml.

Organic oil (labeled “Organic”) is extracted using mechanical methods, without the help of chemical solvents. It is most valuable for cosmetic use. Fat extracted by adding hexane is inferior to organic fat in terms of usefulness, but is not prohibited for use. The chemically treated product has a purity grade of C.

It is recommended to store the oil in a dark and cool place (for example, a refrigerator). The shelf life of the product is 1.5–2 years, but this rule is only valid for closed containers.

An opened product retains its properties for only 5–6 months. Storing the product in old refrigerators with high air humidity, as well as regular contact with hand microflora, reduces this period by 2-3 times.

To reduce the ingress of bacteria, you need to remove the oil not with your fingers, but with a small spatula, which is stored with it after use. If a rancid odor appears or the color of the mass changes, you should stop using it.

Organic creams, which contain a minimum of preservatives, can be stored for no more than 3 months, and homemade products can be stored for up to 1 week (at a low temperature). Masks with shea extract are recommended to be used immediately after preparation.

Rules for selection and storage

Cosmetics containing shea butter are labeled Butyrospermum parkii (Shea Butter). The name should be one of the first in the list of ingredients - this means that the percentage of oil is high enough and the product will be effective. Be sure to read the storage and use conditions of the purchased product to get the maximum benefit from it.

If you buy pure shea butter, choose unrefined . Check the smell: it should be nutty or slightly earthy. Any other aroma may indicate that the product is refined or generally of poor quality.

A white or ivory color also indicates that the oil has gone through a bleaching process.

Store pure product in a cool, dry place in an airtight container. As a rule, its shelf life is about 2 years. If you notice a sour or rancid odor, it's most likely time to throw the product away.

Methods of application

The oil can be used in its pure form or as part of cosmetic products - creams, massage mixtures, scrubs, masks and balms. For facial care, there are also industrial cosmetic products containing shea butter.

You should choose or prepare a suitable product taking into account your skin type, reviews from cosmetologists and the recommendations of a doctor (cosmetologist, dermatologist) who monitors the condition of the epidermis. An examination by a dermatologist is mandatory for people with psoriasis, eczema, atopic dermatitis, acne and other skin pathologies.

In its purest form

In its pure form, shea butter can be used for the following purposes:

instead of a nourishing and softening lip cream in strong winds and frost;
to prevent peeling and irritation after visiting a swimming pool with chlorinated water;
to nourish dehydrated skin during active operation of central heating and air conditioning;
as a soothing remedy for the face after sunbathing and long walks in the hot season;
for healing minor damage to the epidermis and burns, relieving point inflammation (a dense mass is applied locally to the damaged area for several hours);
to relieve irritation after waxing, sugaring and tweezing removal of excess hair in the area of the eyebrows, bridge of the nose and upper lip;
as a natural protective agent against UV rays (you cannot stay in the sun for a long time after applying the oil, but during a short walk on a cloudy day this product can replace more active UV filters);
to prevent skin dehydration during long flights;
as a protective lotion when dyeing hair (a small amount of oil is applied to the root zone, which avoids getting dye on the face);
to stimulate the growth of eyelashes and eyebrows.

For the growth of eyebrows and eyelashes, an undiluted product, oil mixtures and homemade lotions from hydro- and lipophilic components (water, fats, liquid plant extracts, etc.) are used.

In some cases, shea butter is used to increase the durability of makeup. After cleansing and toning the skin, a small amount of oil is applied to the eyelids and cheekbones, and after it is absorbed, decorative cosmetics are applied. The fatty substance creates a thin film between the skin and coloring agents and prevents cosmetics from smudging or crumbling.

When using the product in its pure form, it is necessary to carry out several procedures:

cleanse the skin in accordance with the type of epidermis (oily skin - cleansing gel, combination and normal - foam with soft surfactants, dry skin - cleansing milk, cosmetic cream or foam for sensitive dermis);
moisturize your face with tonic, lotion, herbal decoction or hydrosol of beneficial plants (roses, rosemary, etc.);
remove a small amount of product from the container (a piece of ointment the size of a cherry pit) and warm it in your fingers;
Gently tapping in with your fingertips, apply the oil to moistened skin;
After 30–40 minutes, remove the residue with a soft paper napkin.

To nourish the skin, it is advisable to apply the oil at night. Lips, eyebrows and root zone can be lubricated at any time of the day.

Scrubs

In oil-based scrubs, shea butter extract is used primarily as an additional component. Abrasive particles mechanically exfoliate the stratum corneum of the skin, and oils intensively nourish and increase the depth of penetration of active substances (vitamins, essential oils, flavonoids, etc.).

Homemade scrubs use coffee, coarsely ground coconut, sugar, coarse salt, etc. as an abrasive. Oil scrubs are suitable for dry, flaky and aging dermis. For problem skin and oily skin, you need to choose an acidic, low-fat base (honey with citrus juice, fermented milk products).

Scrub recipe for aging and dull skin

To prepare the mixture you will need:

2–3 tbsp. fresh coffee or coffee grounds;
0.5–1 tsp. fat shea butter;
0.5–1 tsp. olive, grape seed or avocado oils;
3-5 drops of a mixture of ylang-ylang, thyme and geranium esters.

Melt the shea seed extract in a steam bath and mix with another base oil. Then add essential essences and gently stir coffee powder into the fatty base. Gently massage your face with the scrub for 2-3 minutes, and then rinse with warm water. After 20–30 minutes, cleanse the skin of oily film, tone it and lubricate it with moisturizer.

You need to scrub your face 1-2 times a week. Breaks are allowed only in the presence of damage to the epidermis (abrasions, wounds, etc.) and exacerbation of dermatological diseases.

Creams

Shea fat is a good base for homemade creams. It not only nourishes and moisturizes the face, but also thickens liquid components and ensures the dissolution of more active and aggressive substances (vitamins, essential oils).

To prepare the cream, you can choose one of the following recipes:

tamanu and shea butters (40 g and 50 g, respectively), 2 drops each of lemon, geranium and ylang-ylang essential oils;
50 g each of jojoba and shea butter, 30 g of natural wax, 10 ml of avocado oil and orange juice, 50–70 g of cinnamon infusion, 3–4 drops of sandalwood or tea tree ether;
3 tbsp. a mixture of almond and shea butter (2:1), 2-3 drops of lavender, tea tree or chamomile ether;
25 g cocoa butter, 30 ml coconut or shea extract, 2 tbsp. grape seed oil, 1 tbsp. olive fat, 10 g wax, 1 tsp. propolis;
3 tbsp. a mixture of camellia and shea oils (1:2), 1–2 drops of vitamin E (tocopherol acetate), 1–2 drops each of mandarin, rosemary, geranium and jasmine esters.

In the process of preparing homemade cream, you should melt the dense components (cocoa and shea butters, wax, propolis) in a water bath, then add liquids (base oils, infusions, extracts, juice) and essential oils. The finished composition must be stirred until it cools completely, and then transferred to a sterile glass container.

It is not recommended to add natural shea extract to purchased cosmetics. The oil has a dense structure and makes applying the cream difficult. For dry and aging skin, you can choose ready-made creams with a high content of Shea butter.

Massage mixtures

The gradual softening of hard shea fat upon contact with the skin makes it a suitable base for massage mixtures. Massage products can be prepared according to the following recipes:

apricot kernel and shea butter (from 1:1 to 1:2), a few drops of lavender, lemon and mint esters;
vegetable fat from almonds and shea, a few drops of rose oil;
a squeeze of shea seeds, a few drops of chamomile and tea tree esters (for sensitive skin with spot inflammation);
olive and shea butter, honey (1:4).

Application to the face
The latter mixture can provoke the growth of facial hair, so it should not be used by girls suffering from unwanted hair.

Absorption of dense vegetable fat takes a lot of time, so during the entire massage procedure a thin but not too slippery film remains on the skin. When massaging, you should move along the lymphatic drainage lines: from the chin to the middle of the ears, from the nose to the temples, from the eyebrows and bridge of the nose to the hair. During manipulation, you should not put too much pressure on your face or stretch the skin.

Hair masks with shea butter

Shea butter is used not only for the face, but also for hair. Used by those with dry, brittle, weakened hair, and for hair with split ends.

I have already written an article on the blog about using cocoa butter for hair. Recipes for masks can be found in my article “Cocoa butter for hair.” Today I will share recipes for hair masks with shea butter.

Shea butter mask for dry hair

shea butter (karite)

For dry and brittle hair, shea butter is used in its pure form; for this, shea butter needs to be melted in a water bath, the amount of oil depending on the length of the hair. Apply warm, but not hot oil to your hair and distribute over its entire length.

Next, put on a hat and wrap your head with a terry towel. That's it, you can mind your own business. After 40 minutes, wash off the mask with warm water and shampoo. This hair mask is done once a week.

Mask for strengthening hair with shea butter

2 tbsp. spoons of shea butter
3 tbsp. spoons of burdock oil
1 tbsp. spoon of cedar oil

We need to melt the shea butter, add cedar oil and burdock oil to the shea butter. Cedar oil, burdock oil and shea butter are very useful for strengthening hair; these oils will give your hair shine and shine, and ensure easy combing. Among other things, these oils will help restore the hair structure.

We need to apply the mixture of oils to the entire length of the hair, put on a cap, wrap the head in a towel and leave the mask for 40 minutes. Rinse off with warm water. This mask is made once a week, preferably in a course, that is, 2-3 months.

Mask recipes

Shea seed fat can be used as a base for a cosmetic mask or a healthy supplement. The oil softens the effect of the active components and ensures their deep penetration into the epidermis.

Depending on the combination of other components, shea masks can be suitable for dry and dull skin, as well as normal, oily or problematic skin.

To ensure the effectiveness of the cosmetic procedure, you must follow the following rules:

use masks at least 2 times a week;
for dry skin choose an oil base, for normal skin - a moisturizing one (water, honey), for oily and problematic skin - a sour one;
Before using the mask, steam your face, cleanse it of impurities and apply a moisturizing toner;
After a 2-month course, you should take a break of 2–3 weeks.

For wrinkles

The following mask recipes are suitable for rejuvenating and tightening the skin:

1 tbsp. low-fat cottage cheese and shea fat, 2-3 quail eggs. Grind eggs with cottage cheese, add melted butter and apply to face after steaming. Leave the mixture on your face for 10-15 minutes, and then carefully rinse with cool or lukewarm water.
Mix black or dark milk chocolate with shea extract in a 2:1 ratio. Steam, cleanse and lightly pat your face. Apply chocolate paste and leave it for 20 minutes. Rinse off with warm water.
Take 1 peach, mash it with a fork, chop it on a grater or in a blender. Add 1 yolk, 2 tsp to the fruit puree. shea fat and 3–5 ml of vitamin B5 or Panthenol. Apply to face after cleansing, avoiding the eye area. Leave for 20–30 minutes. During the procedure, prepare lukewarm water with a few slices of ginger root. Rinse the mixture off your face with the prepared infusion.

When choosing an anti-wrinkle product, you should consider your skin type. If there is excessive fat secretion, it is recommended to increase the proportion of cottage cheese in the mask, and use whites instead of eggs.

For acne

To get rid of acne and pimples, you can use a mixture of nut pomace, honey and salicylic acid. To prepare the mask you need to take 1 tsp. shea butter, 10–15 drops nut oil (walnut or cashew), 1.5 tsp. honey and 5-6 drops of an alcohol solution of salicylic acid (2%).

Melt the fat, mix all the components of the mask and rub it into your face with massaging movements. After 15–25 minutes, rinse off the composition with a previously prepared infusion of calendula or chamomile flowers.

To get rid of post-acne, you should use masks with retinoids (vitamin A).

From blackheads

To eliminate open comedones (blackheads), a mask made from cosmetic clay, base and essential oils is suitable. To prepare a cosmetic product, you need to take 10 ml of Shea oil and add 2-3 drops of lemon ether to it. In a separate container, dilute 1 tbsp. white or blue clay to the consistency of sour cream or thick yogurt. Add the oil mixture to the diluted clay, mix and apply to a cleansed and moisturized face for 10–15 minutes.

For oily and combination skin, the oil base should be replaced with a curd-oil base.

In addition to reducing the number of blackheads, this mask helps normalize sebum production, lighten the dermis and improve complexion.

For dry skin

For dry skin, nourishing masks are suitable that will eliminate flaking, prevent dehydration of the epidermis and restore its barrier function. The most effective are the following formulations:

1 tsp. olive and shea butter, 0.5 tsp. orange or lemon zest. Melt the dense mass in a steam bath, mix with olive oil and zest, cool slightly. Add 1 yolk to the cooled mixture. Apply the mixture to your face and leave for 20 minutes. Rinse off with cool water.
Mix 1 tbsp. cream or natural yogurt, liquid shea butter and olive oil. Add 1 capsule (4-5 drops) of vitamin E. Mix, apply to skin and leave for 10-15 minutes.
Take 1 tsp. coconut fat and shea butter. Add a few drops of almond and jojoba oils, 1-2 drops of chamomile oil (for sensitive skin), rose (fading and dry), thyme (problematic) or lavender. Distribute the mixture over the neck and face, avoiding the area around the eyes. Leave for 20 minutes, remove any remaining residue with a soft paper towel.

For oily skin

The following masks are suitable for oily, combination and problem skin:

Made from yolk, shea and yeast. Melt the shea butter and lightly dilute 10 g of live yeast with water. Add 1 yolk and a pinch of cardamom powder to this mixture. Apply to the face and wait until the mask dries completely. Rinse off with lukewarm acidified water. To increase the effectiveness of the mask, you can add 2-3 drops of mint or lavender ether to it.
Made from strawberries and shea. Grind several medium strawberries in a blender or on a fine grater. Add the yolk to the berry puree (if the skin is very oily - an egg) and 1-2 tbsp. liquid shea Thicken the mixture with oatmeal or rice flour. Apply and leave for 25-30 minutes.

For lips

If your lips are often cracked, chapped or flaky, then a homemade oil mask will help restore them. It can be prepared from the following components:

almond and shea butter (1:2), 2 drops of sweet orange extract per 1 tbsp. mixtures;
15 g hard shea, 10 ml jojoba oil, 1 tsp. rose water and 2-3 drops of citrus oil (orange or lemon).

Melt the solid butter in a water bath, add the liquid ingredients. Stir for 1-2 minutes, remove from heat, cool slightly and add essential essences. Transfer the completely cooled mixture into a small glass container.

Use 3-4 times a day (including at night) until the cosmetic problem disappears. In the cold season, use to prevent peeling of lips.

For the eye area

Caustic ingredients and essential oils are not recommended for use around the eyes. However, the skin in this area is thin and not rich in sebaceous glands, so it needs increased nutrition and hydration.

The following formulations are suitable for the skin around the eyes:

1–2 tbsp. raw grated potatoes, 1 tbsp. shea, 0.5 tbsp. warm milk and flour (hold for 10–15 minutes);
5 ml of liquid shea butter, 1 ml of vitamin E (apply for 2 hours, blot off the remainder with a paper napkin);
15 g of melted vegetable fat of cocoa and shea, 1-2 capsules of Aevit or 2-3 drops of vitamins A and E, 2-4 drops of rose ether (apply for 25-30 minutes).

For eyelashes and eyebrows

The following mixtures are effective for the growth and prevention of hair loss of eyebrows and eyelashes:

1 tsp each grape seed and shea butter, 1 capsule of retinol or Aevita;
1 tbsp. melted shea fat, 1-2 drops each of lemon balm, rose and chamomile extracts;
burdock and shea butter in a ratio of 3:2 or 1:1, 2-3 drops of cedar ether per 1 tbsp. mixtures.

Oil masks are applied to the eyebrows and eyelashes for half an hour, and then removed with a napkin or washed off. The duration of the procedure is 1–1.5 months. After completing the course you need to take a 3-week break.