Why is he dangerous?
In fact, this synthetic chemical is completely safe for the skin. This has been proven by numerous tests and inspections. This means you can buy a cream that contains this substance.
Hydrogenated polydecene is non-comedogenic and does not cause eye or skin irritation. It is often used not only in adult cosmetics, but also in care products for children in their first year of life.
It can often be found in sunscreen, as well as in shampoos and masks, which are recognized to prevent hair loss and restore its structure.
The chemical is not carcinogenic, not dangerous during pregnancy, and completely hypoallergenic.
Lecithin and other phospholipids
March 7, 2017 Articles
What is lecithin? The word "lecithin" has two meanings. This constantly creates confusion both in concepts and in calculations of the content of phospholipids (complex lipids that contain a phosphoric acid residue).
In a narrow sense, lecithin is phosphatidylcholine , one of the most common phospholipids. And in a broad sense, “lecithin” is a mixture of different phospholipids , where phosphatidylcholine is the dominant fraction.
The most common phospholipids are:
- phosphatidylcholine (PC) – the functional group contains choline
- phosphatidylerin (PS) – contains serine
- phosphatidylethanolamine (PE) – contains ethanolamine
- phosphatidylinositol (PI) – contains inositol
- phosphatidic acid (PA) – does not contain a functional group
What roles do different phospholipids play? Most doctors and even nutritionists do not see differences in the composition of phospholipids. It is important for them to have phospholipids. And what they are doesn’t matter. Meanwhile, different phospholipids play far from the same role. The fact is that different organs and tissues (cell membranes) contain different types of phospholipids.
Meaning of PHOSPHATIDYLCHOLINE :
- Protection against atherosclerosis – lowering cholesterol.
- Heart protection in heart failure.
- Protecting the liver during viral infections and alcohol consumption.
Meaning of PHOSPHATIDYLSERINE :
- Improving memory and cognitive functions, reducing the reaction to stress.
- Improved vision.
- Help with dermatitis and arthritis.
PHOSPHATIDE ACID value :
- Stress management (in combination with phosphatidylserine).
- Improving hair growth in alopecia.
- Increased muscle mass.
Different sources differ in their phospholipid composition:
Source of "lecithin" | FH | FE | FI | FC |
Soy | 47% | 20% | 21% | 10% |
Egg | 66-76% | 15-24% | 1,0% | 0% |
Recommendations for taking phospholipids:
Phospholipids are widely represented in animal and plant products. A daily dose of ordinary mixed human food contains about 5.0 g of phospholipids, and approximately the same amount (5.25 g) of phospholipids is contained in 3 yolks of chicken eggs. We emphasize that this quantity is below the level of adequate need.
Nutritionists recommend additionally taking phospholipids in the amount of 1-3 g/day 4-6 g/day are allowed . At the same time, it is emphasized that the positive effect of phospholipids is manifested starting from a dose of 800 mg .
One capsule of Lecithin NSP contains 206.6 mg of pure phospholipids. The official recommendation for taking the product is 2 capsules x 2 times a day, which provides 826.4 mg of phospholipids.
We conducted a comparative pharmacoeconomic analysis of our product “Lecithin NSP” with other products – sources of phospholipids, which are registered in the Russian Federation.
Figure 1 shows the content of phospholipids in one capsule. As can be seen from the graph, most products contain approximately the same phospholipid content and amount to about 200 mg per standard capsule.
We calculated the average cost of a monthly course of taking these products. As follows from the calculations, our “Lecithin NSP” is the most profitable source of essential phospholipids among analogues available on our market, subject to daily intake of 826 mg of phospholipids (dose corresponding to 4 capsules of “Lecithin NSP”).
Why is it needed?
The main action is a synthetic cleansing oil. It is necessary so that the main components of the cream are more evenly distributed over the skin. It also helps natural plant substances, which are often added to the cream, penetrate into the deepest layers.
We can say that this is a kind of transport substance that helps other substances work not only on the surface, but also in the deeper layers of the epidermis.
In addition, this chemical is completely inert and does not interact with one or another component of cosmetics.
Where is it found?
We learned what hydrogenated polydecene is and why it is needed in cosmetics. Now it remains to understand what creams and other care products it is found in.
- NIVEA – lip balm “Basic care”.
- CLEARSKIN – toning scrub for deep cleansing of pores.
- HEAD AND SHOULDERS – anti-dandruff shampoo.
- VITEX – peeling mask with thermal water.
- MAMA COMFORT – breast skin care gel.
- Aloe Vera face cream-gel from Oriflame.
Drawing conclusions, I would like to say that this substance is completely safe and buying a cream or other cosmetics that contains hydrogenated polydecene is not dangerous.
note
In cosmetics, along with completely harmless chemical components, real “monsters” can also be found. For example, the most dangerous substances for the skin today are recognized as:
- Isopropyl isostearate (isopropyl stearate).
- Isopropyl myristate.
Both of them are highly comedogenic and are not recommended for use on young, and especially problem, skin.
Phosphatidylcholine (lecithin) in cosmetology
Phosphatidylcholine is a natural chemical found in eggs, soybeans, mustard seeds, sunflower seeds and other foods. The term "phosphatidylcholine" is sometimes used interchangeably with the term "lecithin", although the two compounds have differences. Choline is a component of phosphatidylcholine, which in turn is a component of lecithin. Phosphatidylcholine is essentially the active ingredient in lecithin. Although both are closely related, the terms do not always mean the same thing. In the context of cosmetology, it is customary to talk more often about phosphatidylcholine. This ingredient may be listed on the label as: phosphatidylcholine, 1,2-diacyl-glycero-3-phosphocholine, PtdCho and lecithin.
Soy phosphatidylcholine (lecithin) is a common ingredient in cosmetics. 31371
Phosphatidylcholine is a useful compound that is widely used in medicine. Every cell membrane in our body requires phosphatidylcholine, and the skin is no exception. In dermatology and cosmetology, formulas based on phosphatidylcholine (lecithin) are successfully used for the prevention and treatment of a wide variety of problems and diseases: eczema, xerosis, atopic dermatitis, etc. The same component is introduced into cosmetics to nourish and protect the skin, as well as to prevent aging.
Effect of phosphatidylcholine (lecithin) in cosmetics
Phospholipids, a class of lipids that includes phosphatidylcholine, are extremely important components of cell membranes. The integrity of the cell membrane is critical for the proper functioning of dermal and epidermal cells. As we age, the composition of membranes deteriorates towards a decrease in the number of phospholipids and cell function, and as a result, cells lose their normal shape, and the skin loses its elasticity and ability to resist aggressive environmental factors. Ultimately, massive damage to cell membranes accelerates chronological aging, as the skin is unable to withstand the onslaught of toxins and free radicals. And in order to maintain normal cell function, all this damage must be eliminated. But in order to achieve this, cells need an excess of essential phospholipids - phosphatidylcholine and deoxycholic acid. Phosphatidylcholine allows you to recruit other important nutrients to “repair”, which will ensure the repair of damage and restoration of normal cellular function.
You can give the skin the necessary lipostability from the outside - with the help of cosmetics containing phosphatidylcholine. This component of lecithin is capable of performing a triple function in cosmetics: restoration (reparant); softening (emollient); transport system for the delivery of other molecules (as an ingredient that ensures cellular communication). From the point of view of effects on the skin, the form in which phosphatidylcholine is found is unimportant. However, it almost always forms two-layer systems, for example, liposomes: this is its natural form. Thus, phosphatidylcholine, when combined with water, spontaneously turns into liposomes when exposed to even a small amount of salts or water-soluble organic compounds such as urea.
Cosmetics based on phosphatidylcholine
Cream for mature skin Capture R60/80 XP Ultimate Wrinkle Restoring Creme from Dior 31577
Who will benefit from cosmetics with phosphatidylcholine? First of all, these are people with allergic diseases, the symptoms of which appear on the skin; damage and excessive dryness of the skin, dysfunction of the hydrolipid mantle, as well as those who care about preventing premature aging. Fatty acids, which also include phosphatidylcholine, are often included in topical anti-inflammatory agents for atopic and sensitive skin prone to redness.
Phosphatidylcholine in mesotherapy
Phosphatidylcholine is also widely used in injection techniques called lipodissolution (an alternative to liposuction). Unlike injections into the mesoderm layer, here a drug (usually a combination of phosphatidylcholine with deoxycholate) is injected into the subcutaneous fat. Repeated administration of a solution with phosphatidylcholine in problem areas ensures its rapid connection with lipoproteins, dissolution and removal from cells. Also, using injections with phosphatidylcholine, some specialists reduce the severity of ptosis in “severe” drooping upper eyelids.
Mesotherapy against fat deposits 31168
Contraindications and side effects of the lecithin component
American regulatory authorities recognize lecithin as a safe component of cosmetics, as well as a harmless active substance for mesotherapy. True, injections with phosphatidylcholine can cause irritation, swelling, redness, itching, burning, bruising and pain at the injection site. These side effects usually go away within a few days. If phosphatidylcholine is injected directly into fatty tissue (for example, a lipoma), it can cause an inflammatory reaction that changes the structure of the tumor and the tumor must still be removed surgically.
It should also be remembered that phosphatidylcholine should not be used in high concentrations, as it has been experimentally proven that it is more resistant to degradation in small quantities. In addition, with repeated use of phosphatidylcholine in the stratum corneum, an accumulating effect is observed. Cosmetics with phosphatidylcholine are well absorbed by the skin without leaving a greasy or dirty feeling (although other ingredients can perform similar functions, including glycerin, ceramides).
How phosphatidylcholine is obtained and used in cosmetology
As already mentioned, this substance is of natural origin. Most often, soy phosphatidylcholine is used in cosmetology; it better nourishes and softens the stratum corneum of the epidermis. Stabilization of phosphatidylcholine is a separate task for cosmetics manufacturers. Liposomal suspensions based on unsaturated phosphatidylcholine are extremely unstable - they are subject to rapid oxidation. Like linoleic esters and linoleic glycerides, these suspensions must be stabilized by antioxidants such as vitamin E (tocopherol) derivatives. In some cases, lecithin and urea in a cosmetic formula are mutually stabilized. Formulations that consist of a pure liposome suspension with lipophilic additives in the membrane spheres and/or hydrophilic in the inner and outer aqueous phase are very effective. But in order to stabilize a larger amount of lipids, a large amount of stabilizing components - emulsifiers - is also necessary. This raises another problem: it is well known that the compatibility of liposomes with emulsifiers is limited. Moreover, emulsifiers weaken the cosmetic effect of lecithin in relation to the hydrolipid mantle of the skin. The solution to this problem was an innovative development - the technology of derma-membrane structures (DMS). This is a unique type of emulsion for use in cosmetic formulations, which allows substances to be stabilized with virtually no presence of emulsifiers. Dermamembrane structures most often include hydrogenated soy phosphatidylcholine, medium chain triglycerides, shea butter and squalane. Such components of the cosmetic formula will be optimally compatible with the stratum corneum and will not disrupt the functions of the epidermis. Thus, DMS form the basis of protective and nourishing creams, without requiring the use of mineral oils or silicones in the formulation. Creams with DMS moisturize, smooth and strengthen the skin well and for a long time.
Soybeans are the main source of phosphatidylcholine, which is used in cosmetology 31263
However, dermamembrane structures also require stabilization, and this is hindered by... phosphatidylcholine: it inactivates most traditional cosmetic preservatives. Considering that preservatives should not penetrate the skin so as not to provoke the development of skin hypersensitivity, glycols are often used in such cosmetics - propylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, sorbitol and their mixtures. Unlike ethanol (which can also be used in this case), these high molecular weight alcohols simultaneously provide a moisturizing effect.
Liposomal suspensions have proven to be not only effective active ingredients, but also a very convenient form of delivery of lecithin as an independent ingredient in cosmetics. Liposomes and DMS are more compatible with the skin structure than classic emulsions. “Compatible” here means that they do not disrupt the integrity of the skin's lipid bilayers and are not removed by cleansing the skin. Another strong factor in favor of the use of modern delivery systems is that, in many cases, liposomes and dermamembrane structures are highly compatible with each other. From an environmental point of view, the positive fact is that these formulas use a minimum of excipients in the skin care product. In addition, compatibility means that lipids and hydrophilic agents penetrate the stratum corneum, and this corresponds to the natural state of the hydrolipid mantle.